I'm blogging this a day late because we were so exhausted last night that we didn't quite have the energy to do anything more than climb into bed.
Since we missed the Sunrise coming up over the volcano when we did the Sunrise tour on Sunday, we decided to go back on Monday and see the thing that I was told NOT TO MISS. So we got up, again, at 3 AM, ate some breakfast and headed to the middle of the island. It took a long time. And we passed the spot where we had started our bike ride the day before, and KEPT DRIVING FOR ANOTHER HALF HOUR! At the bottom of the mountain we noticed that we only had a quarter tank of gas in our Chevy Aveo (tiny, compact car.) We knew that if we turned around to get gas we were going to miss the sunrise... so we went for it. By the time we finally made it to the top, the car was on empty.
We got into the trunk to get the camera and jackets (its cooooold up there), and I remembered that I had left the memory card for the camera in the computer when I had blogged the day before. Molly and I had an agreement that we were to remind each other to get that memory stick back into the computer after the blogging was completed, and we had both dropped the ball. Sunrise at 6:19 and it was 5:50. No way we could make it to the bottom and back up again before the sunrise, so we gave up on the notion of taking pictures that day and went to watch the sun come up.
It was pretty remarkable. You're standing, quite literally, at the top of a huge cliff, overlooking the "caldera" (giant volcano hole), that has been worn down over years of erosion. The hole itself is giant... more like a canyon. There are several hikes that go down into it, and one of the hikes takes 3 days. As you're looking across this "canyon" you see the tops of the clouds so thick that you can't see anything but the black lava rock, the sky and clouds. Then slowly you begin to watch the clouds collapse upon themselves as the sun begins to rise behind them. When the sun finally breaks over the tops of the clouds, it fills the canyon with light and you realize that the black rock below is actually black, brown, green, grey and many shades of redish orange. One person described the canyon as mordor (from the lord of the rings) and that actually is a pretty decent description... you could almost see an army of Orcs running around down there.
Right after the sun came up, at 6:30, the visitor's center opened up and we scrambled in and bought a disposable camera... only $8.50! What a deal for a monopoly... of course how many people forget to bring a working camera to watch that?
There were a couple of hikes around in that area, so we climbed up a little 500 ft summit to get an even better view of the valley below, then went back to the car to figure out what we were going to do next. We located a trail map and found one that was about 2.6 miles down into the canyon a little bit. No problem.
However, 1. we were not wearing shorts. 2. we failed to bring more than a half liter of water. Soooooo stupid of us. Regardless we started down the trail, noticing how much warmer it was starting to get... but realizing that there wasn't much we could do about it now that we were a mile in. And Molly... being her father's daughter, and me, being invincable, decided to continue down. Right about the point when we decided that we should turn around, we looked down into the valley a little bit and could just
faintly make out a trail that went up to, and around, one of the many smaller volcano cones down in this canyon. I looked at our trail map and found that this was actually the trail that we had intended upon taking, but hadn't realized that it's climax was so amazing. We outweiged our options: We had not drank any more than two sips of our water so far, and we weren't yet exhausted... so we decided to continue on down.
The trail, of course, got much steeper after this point, and sandier... making the trek much more difficult. Molly kept on second-guessing the trail as we continued, but I, cleverly kept playing the devils advocate, saying that we should just go a few more yards to "point x" or "point y" to see what the rest of the trail looks like (she knew I was doing it, but she wanted me to, as well). Finally we got to the last stretch of the trail, and looked back and saw that the final 1000 feet down was only 2 switchbacks... leaving a very difficult climb for us on the way back up. Regardless we pressed on, because we could easily see the calderas calling to us.
From the website, we did the difficult half-day hike (ka lu'u o ka oo):
Keoneheehee Trail (also called Sliding Sands Trail)
This extremely strenuous trail descends 2,800 feet (853m) in the first 4 miles (6.4km) to the valley floor. For a difficult half-day hike, take the trail to the first cinder cone, Ka Luu o ka Oo to complete a five mile round trip hike. For overnight trips Keoneheehee Trail leads to Kapalaoa cabin in 5.6 miles (9km), or Paliku cabin and campsite in 10.4 miles (16.7km). The Keoneheehee Trail starts at the bulletin board by the entrance to the Haleakala Visitor Center parking lot. On long treks to the central valley or beyond it is recommended that you hike the Halemauu Trail out of the valley due to the steepness and soft cinder base of the Keoneheehee Trail.
I should mention that NOBODY was on this trail except us. We had passed several people on the way down, but hadn't seen them after that. We eventually made it to the volcano hole, and took some amazing pictures. From that point you could see the vistor's center... and it was tiny. We rested for awhile, and decided to start back, before it got any hotter... it was 8:30 AM at this point, and the sun was really starting to get warm. Two other people finally met up with us at the cone, so I can safely say that Molly and I were the first to the cone that day!
Molly was sweating her balls off, wearing jeans, so she decided that she was going to become the "trail tailor" and alter her jeans into some stylish shorts... unfortunately didn't have a knife with us, so every person we passed on the way up she asked to borrow a pocket knife. We eventaully found a couple with one after the first .6 miles of the trip back up. They borrowed our sunscreen.
We took it sloooow, so slow the couple we met at the cone beat us back up, easily. We wanted to conserve what little water we had. But I have to say, the hike up was extremely strenuous. After about an hour and a half we made it back up to the top. We managed to conserve our strenth and water quite well. We polished off another full bottle when we got back to the car. It was a tough 5 miles.
It was now 11 AM. How the heck are we going to get down the mountain without any gas... Well, only one way, in neutral, all the way down. I was white knuckled on the way up, but the way down I thought I was going to be sick. I never drive mountains... so Molly was doing all of the driving. She did an amazing job, having been taught from the master. She really wanted to test the "air-conditioning-slows-down-the-vehicles-decent" theory as professed by Professor Max A May. With the car on E and 28 miles down the mountain and 17 miles back to civilization after that, we had to conserve EVERYTHING... no radio, no air... there were some parts towards the end where we even rolled up windows to get better aerodynamics.
We made it, barely.. the light only turned on twice.
After that, we bought a spare memory card for the camera at Wal-Mart, and headed right back where we were for lunch (17 miles up the mountain).
Next we headed towards the 1 winery on Maui. It was in the middle of nowhere. It was a 45 minutes drive from the lunch resturant. The wine was not great, but they had a couple of decent sparklings... and one of them was sale, so got two bottles and headed back to the hotel. That took about 2 hours to get back to the hotel.
At this point we're exhausted. I drove back, and right at the end, Molly wakes up long enough to ask for icecream... so we stop and get a scoop.
Once we get back to the hotel, we showered, inspected our various sunburns (hardly any... but we know now where to apply the suncreen a little better for next time), and made some pineapple vodka drinks and sat in the bed and watched some episodes of "My name is Earl". At 7pm, I got out of bed and fried up some fresh marlin, which we ate quietly, then turned out the lights. We were immediately asleep.
No pictures from yesterday, just on the disposable camera. Today we're taking a vacation from the vacation... just some tooling around the local city... shopping, eating a nice lunch... swimming, napping, whatever. I'll be sure to take lots of pictures.